Tutorial: Simple Slippers

This is a tutorial for how to make a pair of very simple doll shoes. The tutorial assumes an adult crafter with basic crafting experience and does use solvent based glues that requires care and proper ventilation.

Tutorial: Simple Slippers
Fit: Any doll with flat feet (the example uses Lillim Milly)
Difficulty: Easy
Materials and tools
Printer paper
Stiff cardboard
Plain weave cotton fabric (quilters cotton or similar)
Craft foam
Thin ribbon (the ribbon in the example is 14mm wide)
Craft glue for gluing fabric to cardboard.
Contact cement
Craft scissors
Mechanical pencil
Fine permanent marker or ballpoint pen
Optional: acrylic paint and a fine brush (#00 or similar)

Preparations
Test both types of glue on scraps of the intended materials. Specifically, make sure you can glue the fabric to cardboard without the craft glue bleeding through and make sure the contact cement doesn’t have a reaction with the craft foam.
Glue the fabric onto the cardboard using craft glue. Make sure to cover a surface large enough to fit both soles with some margin. This is what will be used for the insoles. Set it aside to dry while making the pattern.

Pattern
To make the pattern, set the doll’s foot down flat on a piece of printer paper. Trace around the foot. Use a mechanical pencil for this and make sure that as little of the lead as possible is exposed, this minimizes the risk of getting any on the doll.
Using the traced line as a guide, draw a sole shape and refine the line.

Cut the pattern out and flip it over, double check that it fits both of the dolls feet and that you like the shape you’ve got.

Insoles
Check that the glue is thoroughly dry, then lay the cardboard fabric side down and trace around the pattern onto the cardboard twice, making sure to flip the pattern the second time.

Cut out both soles.

Uppers
Cut two pieces of the ribbon, both just long enough to reach around the dolls foot.
Hold the insole to the sole of the dolls foot and wrap the ribbon over the foot. Check to see that the ribbon is in the correct position. Hold the ribbon in place while marking where the edges of the ribbons go on the cardboard.

Now it’s time to start assembling the shoe itself. From here on the contact cement will be used. This step requires a little bit of care as it is easy to make a mess. Work in a well ventilated area.
Put some glue between the markings on the outer side of each sole. Do the same on one side of one end of each ribbon piece.

When the glue is dry enough, carefully place the ribbon, using the markings as a guide for both position and angle and press it down.

Place the sole back against the dolls foot and wrap the free end of the ribbon into position. Mark the ribbon where it meets the sole. Note if the ribbon overlaps under the sole, if so; trim off the excess now.

Put glue on the inner side of the sole and the free end of the ribbon, using the markings as guide. Pay attention to where the glue goes; it’s ok if there is some surplus on the cardboard since this will soon be covered by the outsole, but you don’t want too much on the ribbon as that can show on the finished shoe.

When dry, place the ribbon on the sole using the markings as a guide and press down.

Outer sole
Trace around the pattern onto the craft foam twice, making sure to flip the pattern the second time.

Cut the soles out carefully.
Put a layer of glue on both the outsole and the underside of the shoe. Use a pencil or similar to hold the shoe while the glue dries.

Once dry, place the outer sole on the shoe and press them together firmly.

Do the same to the other shoe.

Finishing touches
This step is optional, but it does give a nicer finish to the shoe.
Paint the cut edges on the cardboard with acrylic paint in a color similar to the craft foam, using a thin brush and a steady hand.

Viggo! My first male tiny.

I am happy to announce that the prototype of Viggo is now finished and ready for production.


What’s new?
The male body is very similar to the female body in size and proportion. The upper and lower part of the torso is compatible between the two bodies, so it’s fully possible to use the male upper torso on a female lower torso and vice versa.
All heads fit on both bodies.
The legs are resculpted from scratch. The new knees have a similar range of mobility as the old ones and are more reliable and better balanced. They also give a nicer line to the leg when the knee is bent.
The new legs have a more gender neutral look and the same legs will be used on both the male and female body from now on.
The thigh joint makes sitting poses work a bit better than before. The doll always could do this, but it takes less careful balancing now.

No changes has been done to the arms or hands. Just as with the legs, the arms are the same between the male and female body.

The first order period for this doll will open on the 1st of October. During the order period all three tinies will be available and it will be possible to buy either the full dolls or a combination of the parts you want.

/Lillith

Tutorial: Hat Wig

Whether you are waiting for the perfect wig to arrive or are still looking for the perfect color or style to fit your doll, a hat wig is a quick and easy solution to tide you over. All it takes is a scrap of fabric and a little bit of yarn. The example does use a sewing machine, but the seams are short enough that even if you do it all by hand it’s still a fairly quick little project.

Tutorial: Hat wig
Fit: Lillim Tiny
Difficulty: Easy

Materials and tools:
Thin jersey fabric.
Acrylic yarn
Sewing thread matching the fabric
Sewing machine equipped with a suitable needle for the fabric
Needle for hand sewing
Tailors chalk or some other way to mark the fabric that won’t risk staining the doll
Scissors
Measuring tape and/or a ruler
Iron
Comb

Preparing the fabric
Cut a piece of jersey 11x7cm with the larger measurement in main direction of stretch.
Using a well sharpened chalk and a light hand, mark the right side of the fabric as follows:
Draw a line 1cm away from the long edge on one side of the fabric.
Along this line, make a mark 1cm in from each end. This is the seam allowance for the back seam.
Mark off a 2cm in the middle of the line. This is where the doll’s face will be.

Preparing the yarn
Wind the yarn around two or three fingers (depending on the desired hair length). Don’t overdo it, 20-30 laps are enough for a doll this size.
Cut through the loops on one side to create a bunch of short lengths.

Sewing
Set the machine to a sig-sag stitch about 2mm long and 3-4mm wide. Do any additional adjustments that are needed for you machine to sew stretchy materials. Refer to the manual if needed and do a test or two on scraps before moving forward.

Start sewing along the line marked on the fabric.
When you reach the first mark, stop with the needle down and raise the presser foot. Grab a piece of yarn and slip it under the foot, making sure it’s all the way up against the needle. Aim to center the piece on the seam line, but don’t worry about perfection, this will be trimmed later.

Add more pieces of yarn and start to slowly sew over it. Add more as you go. Don’t place it too densely; this kind of hair can easily get too bulky. Keep going until you reach the marked off 2cm in the middle (here marked with pins for clarity).

Keep sewing along the line without adding any yarn until the next mark.
Start adding yarn again until you reach the last mark. Trim the threads.

Fold the yarn over the seam, away from the edge of the fabric.
Sew a new seam over the fold. This will lock the hair in place.

Fold in the edge with the hair about 1,5cm towards to the back of the fabric.
Stitch the fold in place like a single fold hem. This is the only seam that will be seen from the outside of the finished hat wig, so make it neat. If you are not happy with the look of a sig-sag, see what else your machine can do. Test it out on scraps before you commit and make sure the seam can stretch.

Start to unravel the yarn.
I find the easiest way to simply grab one piece of the yarn at the time, using something like a dull needle to separate the strands of the yarn.

If you like the crimped look you can move on to combing. If you want to straighten the hair; set you iron to a low temperature and gently iron the hair to get some of the crimped look out. Iron both the front and the back.

Gently comb out the hair. Some loose fibers will come out, that is normal.

To get the hair as smooth as possible you may need to go back and forth a few times, between ironing and combing.

Fold the fabric right sides together, making sure to match up the back edges of the hat carefully. Sew up the back seam with a 1cm allowance. You may want a narrower stitch for this, something like 1-1,5mm.

Thread a needle with double thread and do a running stitch along the top edge.

Pull the thread tight to gather the edge and close the cap. Fasten the thread thoroughly.

Turn the finished hat wig right side out.

Finishing
Put the hat wig on the doll. You will likely need to do some trimming and styling to make it look it’s best.
The hair will tend to be longer in the back since the yarn was cut to equal lengths while the hat is worn lower in the back. The space allowed for the dolls face may be too narrow. Trim a little at the time, you can always trim more, but it’s difficult to fix if you take off too much, so check often to see if you are getting close to where you want to be.
If the hat wants to slip off the dolls head, try wrapping an elastic band around the dolls head before you put the hat on. This provides a little bit of extra friction. All the other common tricks for keeping doll wigs on will work as well, such as wig stoppers and silicone wig caps.

Everything She Wears; a new series of tutorials.


Anyone who has been into BJD for while will be familiar with this situation. After a long wait your doll has finally arrived and she is beautiful… She is also bald and naked.
Maybe you are still waiting for things you have ordered to arrive, maybe the things you bought ahead of time didn’t work out or maybe you have no idea on how to style her yet. Regardless of why, sometimes we just want something to put on our doll right now.
This series is in three parts and will cover how to make a hat with attached hair to serve in place of a wig, a pair of slip on shoes and a basic dress.
These will be posted roughly once a week.

Difficulty.
All three of these tutorials are in the easier end of the crafting spectrum. I will assume you to be an adult and to have some basic crafting experience. Beyond that the tutorials have to live up to at least two of the following three points for me to call them easy.
1. It’s a small project that can be finished in an afternoon.
2. It requires no specialty tools and no special skills.
3. It is made out of materials that are relatively cheap and easy to get.

Personal touches.
I intentionally avoid suggesting much variation in these tutorials to keep them clear and concise. This does not mean that no such variations are possible.
On the contrary, anything from simple things like choosing different colors and patterns to more advanced things where you make your own additions and experiment with different materials and crafting methods is highly encouraged. It’s a great way to add a personal touch to your doll. Creativity and self expression through the medium of dolls are a big part of what the BJD hobby is all about, after all, so have some fun with it!

Presenting Viggo; a new tiny doll!

Hi everybody!

I am happy to finally be able to give you a first peak at the new male tiny I’ve been working on.
His name is Viggo.

He will be presented on a male version of the tiny body as a default, but all heads in the tiny line can fit on any of the bodies.

Speaking of bodies; the male body is in the works and I hope to be able to present images of it shortly.

If all goes well we will open an order period for all three tinies later this fall, probably around the first of October.
Keep an eye on the order tab.

/Lillith

Back from Dollcon.DK

We are back, tiered but happy, after a weekend full of wonderful people and beautiful dolls. After years of uncertainty and cancellations due to the pandemic, the convention finally happened and I am so happy we were able to go.

I got to show off both my tinies and the orc to people in real life for the first time and it was very rewarding. Not only were they well received and that gave some much needed doll making motivation, but more importantly I got to see how people viewed and interacted with them, something that can’t really be done on a screen. This gives me invaluable information to help guide me in my future projects and I am very grateful for the interest shown and all the interesting doll making discussions.

Many thanks to all who was there, you guys are awesome!

Ushurz, an Ork art doll.

This is a bit of a side project, but I made him to match my tiny dolls so I think he still deserves to be shown off here. And I am very happy with how he turned out.
He is about 28cm tall.

This doll is made mainly out of papier maché with wooden balls used for some of his joints and polymer clay for his head and hands.

His accessories are made from worbla and wood.

One day I hope make a castable version of him, but for now he will remain a one off art doll.

Two new Crochet Patterns

There are two new crochet patterns added to our Patterns page.
These are made to fit my Tiny dolls.

The first pattern is for a dress with a rounded neckline and lace skirt with a pinapple pattern.
The second is a matching petticoat.

Both patterns include a written pattern as well as a diagram.

I hope you’ll have fun with it.

/Lillith

Introducing the Pattern Page

After a lot of work and a heroic effort by JennyM there is now a place for patterns asociated with this blog. You find the link to it in the upper right corner.

Here we will add patterns for things to make that will fit the Lillim dolls, but you are of course welcome to use the patterns to craft  items for similarly sized dolls as well.

We start out with a few crochet patterns for my tiny girls Milly and Betty.

The patterns here are free to use for personal projects, but are not intended for commercial use. I humbly ask that you respect this and I hope you find the patterns useful.

Happy crafting!

Betty and Milly. Two tiny ladies.

I am happy to present these two.

They are both home cast in polyurethane resin and they share the same body and headcap, only their faces are different.

First out is Betty.

And here is Milly

Note: Millys teeth are not in the sculpt, but simply painted into the gap in the mouth. A shadow line there instead would make the mouth look closed.

Images of the body from different angles:

Additional images of the body in various poses:

Height: 23cm
Eyes in pictures: 6mm oval glass flat back. (8mm eyes with small iris will work as well.)
Head circumference: 11cm
Waist: 9cm
Bust: 10cm
Hips: 11cm
Foot: 32mm x 14mm